Minwax 244444444 Polycrylic Protective Finish, Clear Gloss, Clear, 1/2 Pint, (1 Piece, 1 Pack)

I bought the aerosol version of the polyacrylic. The cap is extremely difficult to get off. I could not do it, so I left it outside by my project for my husband to get home. He's a big strong guy and he, too, struggled immensely to get off the cap. Unfortunately, in the short time I left it outside it froze a bit and it can't be used. I'm going to let it warm up and see if it's useable, The label does say “keep from freezing “, so that part is on me. Even if I can use it, I'll never buy product with the same type of cap again. Awful.

I just did a mahogany coffee table. Dries super fast. I did have a tiny bit of issues with drying too fast but I think the weather is too warm right now. I have minor shiner streaks. Wondering can put a coffee cup on it without coaster or will that cause rings? I have 2 end tables to do and would like it to go smoother. I did 4 coats trying to get it right. Don't think the issue is the product but my application.

I built a kitchen table out of birch and when the kids saw it, I ended up making three more out of eastern red cedar (juniper). I really like the clear finish that didn't amber the natural color. (However, eastern red cedar changes from purple to brown when finished.) One thing I learned was that I needed to apply thick coats that looked milky to reduce brush streaks. Contrary to your recommendation, instead of using a synthetic bristle brush I ended up using a high dollar natural bristle brush. The cedar is bad about having lots of tiny holes and imperfections from its many limbs. I would have liked for the polycrylic to flow more than what it did to help fill the imperfections. It was indoors during winter time and the woodstove no doubt lowered the humidity greatly, which may have accentuated the problem. However, the lack of odor made the projects possible. Couldn't have done it outside in the shop with rain, snow and fog. I'll use polycrylic on my next projects.

Redid my old (26 year old) pine cabinets. Used a famous chalk paint product for the color. Was advised from a friend that to put a final finish on then instead of the wax finish as suggested from paint company. I used Minwax polycrylic on them. Besides producing a beautiful finish, these cabinets seem sturdier. Easy cleanup and also easy to maintain. I brush coated each door on both sides...everyone loves my new kitchen and their considering doing the same as they contemplate cost of new cabinets verses redo their own!

I had a carpenter make a rolling "wine bar" that was paint grade, but being amazing, he used a top quality basswood plywood with maple trim. Once I saw it I decided I didn't want to cover it up, just protect the wood. He recommended a water based product, as did Home Depot (way easier to use, to clean up, and the fumes are much less). I bought this in Clear Satin. I used the technique and patience of a deranged raccoon. I had watched a YouTube video of a women discussing how careful you need to be, to only stir slowly and not shake the can, to only go one way and in the direction of the grain, be wary of brush strokes and bubbles, etc. Nope. Tom Sawyer would have laughed at my application process. It's thick and sticky on wood so I spread in cross-hatch, then went back and smoothed it out with the grain. I sorta sanded lightly between 1st and 2nd coats. I did use a microfiber rag to dust before each application. I think it turned out beautifully. If you are afraid to try, go with Satin as it does dry clear (but goes on milky).