Krylon 12 Oz Terra Cotta Fusion for Plastic Spray Paint Satin (Set of 6)

I am planning to paint several outdoor resin chairs. After cleaning the chairs, would your fusion paint be a good choice? Would I need to use a primer paint first?

I have plenty of options for painting. I use an HVLP gun, there are plenty of rattle can choices,and have messed with epoxies, but I really like Fusion. Its so easy to use, lays down very smoothly, and takes heat well. I originally used it on my Hemi's engine covers, which deal with 300+ degree heat and its been holding up for years. Now I'm using it on my pickups radiator shroud and coil cover and expect the same result. No idea why nobody else makes Plastic paint, but this stuff is a winner.

I don't recommend this paint on soft plastics. Painted my PVC door card and paint was still tacky days after painting. For my dashboard, which was hard plastic - excellent.

I purchased 3 cans of Krylon Fusion Black Matte to convert my blue & black dual-sport motorcycle to completely black. I wiped down all of the plastic body panels with lacquer thinner to remove the gloss. I followed the directions on the can and applied 3 light coats of paint, waiting 1 hour in between each coat. The trouble started after the first coat. Even though I inverted the can and cleared the nozzle after each coat of paint, the nozzle started to spit and splatter with subsequent coats. I had to hold the can further and further away from the plastic panels to get an even coat. After the 3rd coat of paint I let the plastic panels dry for a week before re-installing them on my motorcycle. Within a month the Krylon paint started flaking off. Some of the flaking occurred in "rub zones" (where my knees normally rests against a body panel). I wear bluejeans when riding, so this really shouldn't cause flaking. The paint also flaked off in places that are prone to a small degree of flexing. My interpretation of this failure is that 1) the paint isn't designed to adhere to all plastics and 2) the paint doesn't stay flexible once it's cured. I'm extremely disappointed in this paint. I've long been a fan of Krylon products, mostly because of the fine fan-shaped mist that their nozzles produce. After this experience, I'm not going to waste my time with Krylon any more. When I repaint my bike again I will start by wet-sanding all of the panels (which Krylon claimed wasn't necessary), then apply a base coat of Plastic Primer (which Krylon also claims isn't necessary). I'm going to use Rustoleum products, though. Although I like looking at a nice smooth painted surface, I don't want to have to re-do it every year.

I would like to start off by saying spraying paint requires technique. If you haven't done it before you need to buy enough paint to practice on something. That said, Krylon spray pains have by far the best nozzle available on a spray can. Instead of spraying a circle like every other canned spray paint, their nozzle sprays a thin vertical oval. The spray itself is also much finer. This is much closer to the performance of an actual spray rig and allows for a much more even coverage and better end result. Because the spray mist is so fine and because Krylon dries fast you do need to spray a little closer to the surface than you would with ordinary canned spray paints. Spraying from too far away could be a possible cause for some of the negative reviews regarding a powdery finish. If you spray from too far away some of the paint mist will actually dry on its' way to the surface you're painting creating paint "dust". You also need to spray evenly, which this tip makes easy with just a little practice. Additionally you will need to cover the surface being painted by spraying several light coats; you should be able to see through the first couple of coats. Since Krylon has such an excellent, fast drying time this can be accomplished pretty quickly. Spraying too heavily is likely the cause for some of the other negative reviews concerning running paint. I would also add that you should turn the can upside down and clear the nozzle by pressing until there is no paint left in the spray after each coat; this will prevent the nozzle from getting fouled with dry paint which could explain the "eggshell" reviews. Finally, though sanding and priming are not needed with this paint, the surface still must be clean. Follow the instructions on the can regarding this. As a side, surface imperfections will show through ANY spray job so sand and prep accordingly if you have imperfections and desire a smooth outcome. SO... with proper technique this paint will provide a professional looking finish that adheres very well to plastics. You will not find a better finish without going full out pro with a spray rig and even then the difference will likely be negligible. No other canned spray paint can even come close. For those curious, I most recently painted the sun bleached plastic hatch covers on a kayak I purchased second hand; with stellar results I might add.